Having spent a lot of time in CDMX, I have to admit that the neighborhood is rather hit or miss.ĭuring the day it’s a vibrant area that bustles with people, restaurants, shops, and street vendors. The Umbral is located in the heart of the historic Zocalo district, near the city’s central plaza, the big cathedral, impressive Aztec ruins, and many of the main government buildings. There’s also a branch of Ojo de Agua, a small café chain that has locations all over CDMX, and is popular for its fresh juices and healthy yet tasty breakfasts. I didn’t get a chance to try the patisserie Matisse or Chocolateria San Gines, but suffice to say there are plenty of chances to eat. I was particularly into the surrealist pianos. In the lobby a spiral staircase will bring you to Nardo Cocktail Club, where you can enjoy art with your drinks. On the roof are two options: Oliva, which provides a fairly wide range of Mexican and international bites throughout the day, both in a restaurant and via a trimmed-down poolside menu (yes, the hotel has a small rooftop pool and lounge area) and Paxia, which offers an elaborate menu of modernist Mexican flavors. There are a bunch of different foody-drinky opportunities in the building, and I tried three. The bed is fantastic, the bathroom spacious and elegant, and my room had a view of the bustling street below. Mine were Mazzy Star and ACDC, but you can request titles from a fairly wide-ranging selection. Beyond this is a secondary entryway – also black – with a couch and TV.įinally, beyond a curtain you enter the room proper: a bright space with top-notch hotel appointments – and a record player flanked by a pair of records. Each room’s foyer is a little cave of darkness: black walls with a couple of spotlights illuminating large art pieces, a little grey waiting chair by the door, a desk hidden in the gloom – very rock and roll. It’s like entering into another black hole. Stepping out into the black, glass, and almost industrial metal touches of the hall, the Bat-cave ambiance cranks into high gear. Things get particularly gothy once you take the old-fashioned elevator to the guest floors. Abstract works from Mexican artists are well placed throughout, and in the gallery off the lobby was a selection of works from indigenous Wixarika artists. Hotel art can vary greatly in quality, but I genuinely appreciated what I saw displayed at Umbral. The lobby provides access to two art galleries where revolving collections are on display, and you’ll find fine art scattered throughout the hotel – including some singular pieces in one of its bars (more on that in a moment). The whole place has an almost steampunk atmosphere that blends neoclassical features with modernist and, again, gothic elements.

Curio collection